Beyond cheap labour: How Bangladesh’s RMG Industry can chart a new course

Bangladesh’s RMG sector accounts for over 80% of the country’s export earnings and provides jobs for bigger than four million staff.

This a will deserve to have sector is for the time being at the biggest juncture. The rising requires higher wages from garment staff in the face of escalating inflation and a cost-of-living disaster, have ignited extensive discussions about the viability of the field’s archaic enterprise model, which depends significantly on low labour costs to retain global competitiveness.

In November 2023, following important protests, the then authorities declared an raise in the minimal month-to-month wage for entry-level garment staff, elevating it from Tk8,000 (about $67) to Tk12,500 (roughly $105).

Even with this 56% raise, many labour leaders contended that it remained insufficient to quilt needed living costs and changed into significantly decrease than their requested Tk23,000 ($209).

So after the autumn of the Awami League authorities, protests erupted again, tense higher wages. Essentially based on these protests, the intervening time authorities has formed a committee, headed by an further secretary from the Ministry of Labour and Employment, to re-take into myth the minimal wage.

The committee will put up methods on the feasibility and imperatives to take a look at the minimal wage to the Ministry of Labour and Employment by April 2025.

The European Union, a key trading accomplice and thought of one of Bangladesh’s most titillating apparel markets has been vocal about the want for labour reforms. EU tension entails no longer handsome higher wages but furthermore improved working prerequisites, freedom of association, and adherence to World Labour Organization (ILO) requirements.

A wage raise brings reduction to staff, yet it has sparked enviornment amongst manufacturing unit owners and specialists. Some are enthusiastic that increasing labour costs might presumably also undermine Bangladesh’s aggressive edge, especially in a world market where price sensitivity amongst patrons is important.

The challenges of wage hikes

Bangladesh is the realm’s 2nd-most titillating garment exporter, following only China. Many imagine moderately priced labour has been predominant to this achievement.

So naturally a wage raise affords a location for manufacturing unit owners. On one aspect, there is tension from global patrons and labour advocacy organisations to ensure handsome working prerequisites and handsome compensation. On the opposite hand, increasing manufacturing costs are inserting tension on their already narrow profit margins.

A gaze by the Bangladesh Institute of Pattern Compare (BIDS) implies that elevating wages might presumably also consequence in a 15-20% raise in manufacturing costs. This would per chance presumably presumably be mitigated by enhancements in productivity or extra favourable pricing from global patrons.

World producers, which have historically sourced from Bangladesh on myth of their affordability, might presumably also rethink their present chains. Nations shut by, equivalent to Vietnam, Cambodia, and Ethiopia, with their appealing labour costs, might presumably also design these impact of orders away, presumably diminishing Bangladesh’s market presence.

However wages are only half of a grand bigger portray, “Low-price labour changed into no longer our only advantage; there were loads of issues that had beforehand labored to our advantage. For instance, vitality costs frail to be decrease, which have now viewed a 200% hike. We had been promised an uninterrupted gas and electrical energy present for these high costs. But, issues only got worse,” said Shams Mahmud, managing director of Shasha Denims Ltd and archaic president of DCCI.

“Due to gas and electrical energy shortages, some factories are no longer working at 100%. Out of 30 days, some factories are only working 25 days or fewer. However they desire to pay the wages anyway. Right here’s exacerbating the impact of the wage raise,” Mahmud added.

Essentially based on him, higher hobby rates have furthermore reduced gain staunch of entry to to funds for loads of RMG factories.

Because the speculation around whether or no longer the minimal wage desire to be increased gains traction, industry insiders argue that an in-depth search desire to be taken at how the industry has coped with the closing wage raise. If the industry has no longer absorbed that raise, a novel wage hike might presumably also spell wretchedness.

To support its RMG sector amid increasing labour costs, Bangladesh wants to shift in direction of a extra varied and price-centered industry manner. A unfold of approaches might presumably also support the industry in managing this swap.

Exploring unusual avenues and ingenious solutions

Historically centred on moderately priced, straightforward apparel, Bangladesh wants to transition in direction of increasing high-price, impact-driven devices appreciate sports clothing, luxurious apparel, and specialised textiles. These classes attract higher costs and might presumably support increased labour costs.

“Bangladesh has already captured the decrease pause of the market. We’re the king of the basics. The amount of apparel (in the case of weight) shipped by us is higher than in China, yet they make extra cash than us. We attain $5 FODs; they attain $50 FODs. If we’re to turn staunch into a $100 billion RMG exporter, we might presumably like to experience to higher-pause products.” remarked Syed M Sajjad, chief working officer of Majumder Dresses Restricted.

“Vietnam already produces Gucci and Prada products. We have started doing it to a pair of extent, appreciate producing Puma and G Broad title-Uncooked. We desire to first experience for the mid-tier market system and lastly experience on to higher-pause products,” he added.

RMG owners have to furthermore take into myth inserting resources into analysis and model, in conjunction with constructing collaborations with global model colleges and impact homes, which would per chance per chance presumably presumably be very precious.

Improving abilities and preparing the personnel

“Right here’s the AI period. Our staff desire to adapt to such applied sciences and give a boost to their productivity if we’re to cease aggressive. There is not any longer a alternative to that,” said Ferdaus Ara Begum, CEO of Enterprise Initiative Leading Pattern (BUILD), Public Non-public Dialogue Platform, which works for the non-public sector.

Despite the indisputable fact that staff in Bangladesh are when compared with nations appreciate China, it does no longer essentially mean the labour itself is significantly more cost-effective attributable to staff there being extra atmosphere friendly. “While staff here have an effectivity of 40%, Chinese language staff have an effectivity of 70%,” said Syed M Sajjad.

Improving the abilities of the personnel can boost productivity and empower other folks to manage extra intricate, higher-price manufacturing responsibilities. Investments from each and every the authorities and private sector in vocational training applications can support staff adjust to unusual applied sciences and cease aggressive in an evolving job market.

Advancing in know-how

Adopting automation and cutting-edge manufacturing applied sciences can boost effectivity and productivity, serving to to offset the outcomes of rising wages.

For instance, imposing digital tools for managing inventory, the employ of automatic stitching machines, and utilising AI-driven systems for quality alter can lead to price reductions in the prolonged elope. This swap might presumably also lessen the want for unskilled staff, but it absolutely can furthermore open doors for extra skilled positions.

“Right here’s the age of disruptive know-how. Previously you presumably can also employ the the same machinery for ten years. Now machinery gets outdated-popular in as shrimp time as two years. So, we’re constantly upgrading and automating our factories. Bangladeshi factories are extra readily adaptable to newer know-how; we’re extra accepting,” said Syed M Sajjad.

Sustainable and ethical manufacturing

As customers and regulatory our bodies appreciate the EU an increasing selection of push for eco-friendly and ethically produced apparel, sustainability affords a novel alternative for gaining a aggressive edge.

Bangladesh, has a distinguished presence of LEED-certified inexperienced factories. “Out of the 100 high inexperienced factories on this planet, now we have around 70, which is a big deal. We’re very transparent and extremely compliant, unlike rivals appreciate India or China. We’re very transparent about how we take care of our staff and what we pay them,” said Syed M Sajjad.

Bangladesh can further toughen its sustainable practices, equivalent to water recycling, embracing renewable vitality, and promoting circular model initiatives. Consultants imagine these initiatives resonate with conscious customers and permit producers to location higher price capabilities.

One amongst Bangladesh’s most titillating markets, the European Union is progressively making an are trying to diminish helpful resource extraction, so that they’re shifting remote from rapid model, which Bangladesh RMG specializes in. “To retain their support on the European market, where around 40% of our garment exports experience, Bangladesh can import frail apparel from Europe which have long gone by the first couple of stages of recycling. Then we can attain the product here and ship it encourage over, including price, said Ferdaus Ara Begum.

Leveraging geopolitics

A range of customers are taking their enterprise remote from China attributable to their commerce battle with the US and some inside complications. So, Bangladesh can turn staunch into a viable possibility for these patrons. “As many patrons are having a search to experience remote from China and don’t take into myth nations appreciate Pakistan and Myanmar a upright possibility attributable to their political instability, we might presumably also doubtlessly attract these prospects,” defined Syed M Sajjad.

On high of that, Bangladesh has a first-rate selection of factories with gigantic skill, which only a pair of nations have; this can certainly be an advantage, as patrons shifting remote from other nations would want gigantic orders completed pronto.

Essentially based on Sajjad, in loads of nations, factories with 300-500 staff are thought to be gigantic. On the opposite hand, some factories in Bangladesh even have up to 15,000 staff. Which provides us the flexibility to full gigantic-volume orders in a temporary time.

Pushing encourage

Buyers in important export areas, especially in Europe and North The US, are inserting higher emphasis on ethical sourcing.

On this affirm, producers support the biggest impart. Advocates for labour rights contend that firms desire to change their procuring habits to ensure handsome compensation for staff. But, varied patrons are hesitant to settle for increased costs, including to the complexity of the wage dialogue.

After the Rana Plaza tragedy, Bangladeshi RMG factories have gone by a first-rate transformation, markedly bettering working prerequisites and safety requirements. This has required a first-rate selection of resources, yet patrons are aloof only spirited to pay the previous quantity.

“Our factories are now 5-huge title, but patrons are paying one-huge title costs. So, garment owners desire to come collectively and quiz handsome costs. We furthermore desire to push so as that other nations are held to the the same compliance requirements we’re held to,”  concluded Sajjad.